East Neuk Holiday Diary: 3 Nights in Pittenweem
On Saturday I set out on a solo adventure - 3 nights away in the East Neuk of Fife. This is a part of Scotland I’ve visited many times and it never disappoints. Its coastal villages have an abundance of picturesque harbours and historic buildings, which date back centuries. Now popular with tourists, who come to walk the coastal path, visit the art and harbour festivals and sample the deliciously fresh seafood.
I left home laden with enough luggage for a fortnight in Spain. Usually, I’m a toothbrush and spare knickers type of traveller, but for this trip as well as a holdall of clothes, and a small rucksack, I decided to lug a full suitcase full of charcoal, paints, mini easel, palette, drawing paper - with the intention of at least spending some time drawing, and/or painting.
Train to Edinburgh. Train to Leven. Bus to Pittenweem. I love watching the world go by from public transport windows. There’s always so much to see and nothing else to do but to relax and look. The weather was warm, but there were dense grey clouds forming and by the time I arrived there was light drizzle.
Had a nice walk round the harbour in the rain, eating chips from a cardboard box, followed by a salted caramel ice cream cone - the chippy and ice cream shop were close neighbours of my Airbnb.
Sunday morning started dry so I had a good wander. When the heavy rain started I made my way back to my cosy home from home and decided to reframe my disappointment with the poor weather as an excellent opportunity to get the art materials out.
So, I drew a scribbly tonal pencil study of the chair in my room, and some very rough sketches from the photos I’d taken around the harbour.
Later, the rain dried up for a while so I headed out with my sketchbook and sat drawing at the harbour, briefly, before I got too cold and gave up. I finally have to admit it to myself that I’m never going to be an artist who enjoys drawing or painting outdoors. I’m just not hardy enough, and have gained even more respect for artists such as Joan Eardley, who worked on huge atmospheric canvasses beside the North Sea, in howling gales!
Monday was warmer and a good day for more exploring. After a hearty cooked breakfast at the Clock Tower Cafe (try their lemon meringue cookies if you go!) I took a bus further round the Fife coast to St Andrews, walked and walked, then got another bus north again to Dundee. More walking; sore feet, but think I managed to visit every charity shop in the city centre and had a look round the Mcmanus Museum and Art Gallery too before getting the bus back.
Anstruther is another beautiful harbour town just a couple of miles away from Pittenweem so I decided to break my journey there and take in the sea views.
As you can imagine, after packing all that into one day I slept well.
Got back home on Tuesday at teatime after another meandering day of public transport. Good to get away for a while and as always great to get back to the comfort and familiarity of home.
Although, as an art holiday it wasn’t the most productive, the change of scene was refreshing and inspiring. Plus all that sea air really does work wonders! I had an uncharacteristic burst of energy yesterday and got through my chores list in record time. Hope the invigorating effect doesn’t wear off too soon!
Happy Friday! Have a very good weekend.
I love the East Neuk, I dream of living there one day. Crail is worth a visit, they have a couple of lovely galleries and a fabulous pottery.
It’s a wee jewel in Fife xx
Looks like a fab trip, I must admit to bring a bit envious! 😁